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All Paint Starts as Powder Pigment No matter which medium you choose to work with, if it's got color, it started out as pigment powder. Michelangelo had a lot more limitations than we do today (modern pigments are, after all, already powder when we get them, and man made organic compounds give us a much wider variety of colors to choose from), but the process is still the same. Pigment powder + binding agent + plus thinning agent = paint. And while modern painters have a myriad of colors to choose from unavailable in Michel's time, starting with a limited palette is a good idea. Think of the basic color wheel, and purchase colors that fill that need: red, yellow, blue, orange, purple, green, white, black and brown. You can get them at most professional artists supply stores, or look for them on line by searching for "pigment powders" or "artists ground pigments" or some such category. |
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The next step is to mix the powders with water to create the paste. Once mixed, this paste will keep almost indefinitely, as long as you keep moistening it with more water once it is made and stored in small jars. If it dries out, it can still be saved by remixing water into it, but this is a laborious process (sort of like working with dried clay), and it's usually easier to just start over again. So to be safe, I only take small portions of powder out of the original jars to make paste in the first place. Most pigments are fairly cheap but some, like cobalt blue or purple, are pretty pricey. (An important note: always cover your mouth and nose with a mask when handling pigment powders. Over time, they can be mildly toxic, so avoid inhaling them.) There are two kinds of pigments. I'm sure there are technical terms for them, but I refer to them as "easy" and "difficult", the principle difference between them being the ease with which they mix with water. The easy ones (cadmiums, cobalts, titanium white) mix - you guessed it - easily. Just add water a little bit at a time and work it into the powder with a palette knife. If you saw "The Girl With the Pearl Earring", this is what she was doing for Vermeer in his studio, except she was working with oil paint (though Vermeer's wife apparently thought something else was going on). The difficult ones require an extra step, probably because they are man made organics, but I haven't done any research to support this theory. Anyway, the 'why' is irrelevant. The problem is that these pigments just don't mix with water. Oil and water, is more like it. Fortunately the problem is simply solved: you just take an eye dropper and add a few drops of alcohol to the pigment powder before adding the water. Mixing is also a little more work, but fortunately once the paste is finished and stored, it doesn't need constant reworking. It's worth the effort, because there are some amazing colors available in these pigments. Now the easy part - making the paint. |
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Simply put a small amount of the paste in the well of a good watercolor palette, add the medium in a roughly 3-2 proportion of medium to paste, and mix. Though a hard plastic tool is recommended as a mixing tool, nothing is actually made for this purpose, so search your art supply store for anything suitable. (I like a plastic item made for rubbing transfer letters like Chartpak onto paper, which you can find it in the graphic arts sections of you art store, but you may find something you like better.) It should be about pencil sized and made of plastic so the different pigments will clean off easily without staining or sticking to the tool.' The final mixture should have a thick, creamy consistency, no where nearly a thick as oils or acrylics, and should handle easily with a fine watercolor brush. There is no formula. If there is too much paste, the paint will appear thick and chalky; if too much medium, it will be too thin and streaky. And since different pigments handle differently, the final decision is up to you. |
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The Painting Surface You are now ready to paint. The egg yolk binder makes the paint dry really fast (30 -60 seconds), but this also means that it's a thin, brittle paint, without the elasticity of oil or acrylic paints. The painting surface needs to be hard and smooth so the brush strokes will be clean and crisp, and won't flake off if the surface flexes, as it would with canvas or paper. A plaster wall would be ideal, but they're a little hard to haul around, and highly polished wooden panels are a lot of work to create and can be fairly expensive. Fortunately, modern materials have given us an ideal working surface...Masonite! It's cheap, lightweight, plentiful, and acid free. |
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| You can either buy your own panels (if you're a purist) and prime them with gesso yourself, or do it like I do and buy them ready made. I see no shame in saving a step or two, and having more time to paint. However, if you're going the purist route be aware...acrylic gesso is a bad idea. That's because the material is essentially plastic, and egg tempera paint will not absorb into the surface to adhere properly. You need the tooth and absorbency of traditional gesso that only animal skin glue and gypsum or marble dust can provide. |
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